Use the following tutorial to support the instructions in your Mykonos Pattern booklet.
In this tutorial, we are using IL019 Medium weight 100% Linen (5.3 oz/yd2), in the color Olive Branch. At times, you may see we have used a contrasting thread color to show our stitching. We recommend you use a matching thread like Gutermann Sew-All color #825.
The waistband instructions begin on page 70. This tutorial will begin by applying fusible interfacing to our waistband pieces AA and AB as instructed on page 71. You will have already made and attached your belt loops.
1. Apply interfacing to the Wrong Side (WS) of all 4 waistband pieces AA and AB. Ensure you are applying the interfacings to the wrong sides of the fabric so you are left with mirrored pairs of AA and AB.
To keep track of my pattern pieces, I wrote the pattern letters and transferred the notches onto the interfaced side of the waistband pieces.
2. Align each waistband AA to AB with Right Sides (RS) together. You will know which end to use by matching up the short ends with the notches.
3. Sew each with a 1/2" seam, then press the seam allowances open.
4. At this step I chose to label my Waistbands as the Upper and Inner waistbands. I did this by comparing my set of waistband pieces to the illustrations in the instructions booklet and marked the wrong side of each waistband piece with a 'U' for the upper waistband and an 'I' for the inner waistband.
I also marked the hook and eye placements and the drawstring openings.
5. Sew your buttonholes for your drawstrings on the RS upper waistband.
To do this effectively I used a small 3/8" to 1/2" button as the guide in my machine's automatic buttonholer. I sewed a trial on some scrap fabric to check the length was close to the pattern markings. Once I was happy with the length, I sewed button holes onto my waistband pieces.
Attach the Bias Strip:
The next few steps will help you attach a bias strip to the inner waistband piece. This is going to finish the lower edge of the inner waistband, enclosing the raw edge. This will create a nice professional-looking finish on the inside of your Mykonos Pants and Shorts.
6. Join your bias strips and then position it, with right sides together, on the bottom edge of the inner waistband piece (the one without buttonholes).
Note: I used some white linen for this step to make it easier to see. You can make yours in matching fabric per the instructions.
7. Sew with a 1/4" seam to attach. Trim away any excess fabric from the bias strips on each end.
8. Press the inner waistband and bias strip open, with the seam allowance pressed down toward the bias strip.
9. Continue folding the bias strip to the WS of the inner waistband. Topstitch in place close to the seam line on the right side.
Note: the raw edge of the bias will be left extended to the wrong side of the waistband. Later it will be sewn into the waistband. So no need to stress about raw edges here :)
10. Your inner waistband is all ready now! Let's attach our upper and inner waistband pieces together.
Place your waistband pieces with right sides together. Pin together at the upper edge (the one opposite from where you just attached the bias).
Sew together with a 1/4" seam.
11. Press your waistband pieces open, with the seam allowance pressed down towards the inner waistband (the one with the bias sewn to it)
12. Understitch the seam allowance from the right side of the waistband to the inner waistband at about 1/16" or close to the seam.
(This will stop your inner waistband from rolling to the right side of your shorts or pants)
13. Sew on your trouser hook and eye according to your markings.
14. Let's sew the waistband to your pants or shorts!
Match the raw edge of the upper waistband with the upper raw edge of your shorts, with the right sides together. You will notice the notches on the waistband will match up with the darts, pleats, and seams.
Note: your waistband will hand over the edge of your pants or shorts fly opening. This is intentional to help us finish that edge later. So ensure you have your notches all lined up properly, and this extra 1/4" overhang on each end.
15. Sew your waistband to your pants or shorts using a 1/2" seam. Press your waistband up, with the seam allowance pressed up into the waistband (So it can be enclosed into the waistband later)
Here is what the seam allowance looks like on the wrong side:
16. Let's finish the short edges of the waistband. Make sure your pants are RS out, with your waistband flipped up and opened out.
Now, fold the waistband in half with the right sides together, matching the short edges as shown:
Remember those 1/4" overhangs I was talking about earlier? This is what we are pinning together on both sides of your pants or shorts fly opening. Notice that I haven't pinned the rest of the waistband down, just the front edges. That's because we are just going to sew down these end bits.
17. Sew together with a 1/4" or scant 1/4" seam. back-tack at the start and end of your sewing, and be sure to not sew through the front of your pants, just the waistband pieces. (Don't forget to do the other side)
TIP: You can clip away the corner of the seam allowance as shown in the above image. This will help you push your waistband out with a nice crisp point.
18. Turn your waistband right-side out again to reveal your lovely finished ends! Use a point-turner or a pin to get those corners poked out. Press gently.
19. Now to finish that waistband!
Pin your upper and inner waistband pieces together. At each fly opening edge, tuck under the inner waistband to conceal the corners and protect the raw edges.
Sew through all layers in the seam line of your pants. Also known as 'Stitch in the Ditch'. I've shown your stitching line with the bright dashed line since it will be near invisible on your shorts and pants! Neat huh?
You've attached your waistband! Continue to finish it up by following the instructions in your instruction booklet to insert the drawstring and sew the belt loops!