Use the following tutorial to support the instructions in your Mykonos Pattern booklet.
In this tutorial, we are using IL019 Medium weight 100% Linen (5.3 oz/yd2), in the color Olive Branch. At times, we will use a contrasting thread color to show our stitching. We recommend you use a matching thread like Gutermann Sew-All color #825.
The pocket instructions begin on page 66. This tutorial will begin by applying fusible interfacing to our pants front pieces and upper fly extension (U).
1. Apply interfacing to the pants front and upper fly extension (U) according to the pattern instruction booklet. Press as indicated.
2. Take pieces U and V. You will place them with the right sides together.
3. Fold the extension of piece V over piece U. Pin in place.
4. Sew 1/2" seam along the right straight edge and around the curved edge.
5. Trim down the seam allowance to 1/4" and clip the curved edge by cutting out wedges around the tightest curved section.
6. Turn right side out and press. The folded-over edge will now lay inside of the newly assembled fly extension.
7. Serge around the pant crotch on both the pant legs.
8. Place the left pant leg (wearers left) inside the right pant leg with the right sides together. Then pin around the crotch.
When you get the fly opening section, note the dot pattern markings. Make sure the left and the right pant legs match up at this dot marking.
9. Sew around the crotch using a 1/2" seam allowance, stopping at the dot marking. This is will leave the front fly opening unsewn.
10. Take your assembled fly extension (U and V) and topstitch the zipper to the uncurved edge. I lined up the edge of my zipper tape up with the edge and sewed a 1/4" seam.
Note: It can be easier to sew this using your machine's zipper foot.
11. Turn your pants right side out. Take your assembled zipper and fly extension and place it under the upper edge of pant leg Q, with the curved edge of Q folded under.
Position the zipper teeth a little away from the folded edge so they don't get caught, and pin in place. Top stitch close to the folded edge of Q catching Q, the Zipper, and the Fly extension (U and V).
12. Turn your pants wrong side out. Now, we will attach the other side of the zipper to the curved extension on pant leg P.
Start by pinning your other zipper tape edge to the unfolded extension on P, with the notches matched up on the pant openings. Your zipper will now be positioned right side down. You may find it helpful to zip up the zipper and unzip it as needed.
Next, I like to flip my pants right side out, test the zipper, and re-position as needed. I found my zipper sat best when it was placed approx 3/8" away from the fold line of pant leg P.
Once your zipper is in place, sew it down to Front (P) close to the zipper teeth, using your zipper foot.
13. Transfer the fly markings from your pattern. (I found it easy to just take pattern piece U and use it as a guide for transferring the markings easily).
14. Topstitch along the line you just drew. Start by sewing through just the wearer's right pant leg and stop when you get to the point it starts to curve. Back tack and cut your thread.
15. You can zip up your zipper and place the whole pant front under the needle. You'll find there will be both layers of the fly and zipper overlapped. We want to sew through all of these layers to complete the topstitching.
Begins sewing again, and slowly sew around the curve. be sure to back tack at the start and end of your stitching. I like to do some extra back tacking where the two pant front pieces meet to ensure this high wear area (you will be unzipping your pants down to this point) gets all the support it needs.
Your fly is done! Congratulations!