How to sew the Welt Pocket on the Mykonos Pants and Shorts


Use the following tutorial to support the instructions in your Mykonos Pattern booklet.


In this tutorial, we are using IL019 Medium weight 100% Linen (5.3 oz/yd2), in the color Olive Branch and we have used a contrasting thread to show our stitching lines. We recommend you use a matching thread like Gutermann Sew-All color #825.


The pocket instructions begin on page 60. This tutorial will begin by transferring the pocket markings on the back pant (R)



1. After applying your interfacing (We used a black, lightweight woven interfacing) transfer your pocket markings by using the pocket template (AH) as a guide.

To do this, I poked holes through the corners of the main lines I wanted to transfer on the pocket template and used a removable ink fabric marker to mark the points. I then used a ruler to join the dots.
Note: Be sure to test your fabric marker on your fabric first.

To help me transfer the pattern markings accurately to the wrong and right side of the fabric, I machine based around the inner rectangle as shown. You can do this by hand or machine, just be sure to use a long stitch length so the threads are easy to remove later.


Image: Showing the Wrong Side (WS)

Image: Showing the Right Side (RS)


2. Prepare your pieces X,  Y, and Z according to your pattern booklet's instructions.


3. With the WS of the back pant piece (R) facing up, line up the RS of the pocket piece (X) to the markings as shown. Then baste in place by hand using a long stitch length:

4. With your Back Pant piece laying RS up, line up the folded edge of Piece Y with the lower horizontal marking. 



When you sew piece Y to back Pant R, sew on top of your previously based lower line only. This is the second line from the bottom on your pocket template as shown:

Note: Be sure to back tack.


5. Fold Piece Y down and out of the way of the upper pocket markings. I pinned the long section out of the way.



6. Pin the RS of Piece (Z) to the RS of the back pant (R). You are going to line up the bottom edge of Z with the line you previously sewed on Y.

Sew down Z, being sure to back tack at the start and end of your stitching. This will be on top of your previously basted line.

To help me sew accurately I marked my sewing line with a removable marker. (You can see it in the image above)


OK, the trickiest part is over! Yipee!

7. Now, we are going to cut a hole for our pocket opening. Our instructions say to do this from the WS, but I wanted to show you what this looks like from the RS between the pieces we have just sewn.

Peel back pieces Y and Z, and you will see you have just sewn lines on top of the two horizontal lines from the square we basted earlier. If you traced all of the pocket markings you will see a line in the middle with two lines protruding from each end. These are the lines we are going to cut.

When we flip over the pants to the WS, we want to make sure we don't accidentally cut pieces Y and Z, so it pays to be aware of them.

OK, Flip over your pant leg to the WS, and cut along the lines, being sure to cut carefully around Y and Z, and to not clip any of your previous lines of sewing at each of the 4 corners. Just get as close as you can.

(You can remove your hand basting stitches now)

8. Pull all of pieces Y and Z through the opening you just cut. Press neatly.


View from the RS:mykonos_welt_pocket0543.jpg

9. The last thing we need to do is secure the sides of our pocket openings. 
To do this, fold away the side of the pants and pocket piece X to reveal the pocket pieces Y and Z. You will see a small triangle of fabric. We are going to stitch this down to piece Y.mykonos_welt_pocket0546.jpg


Repeat on the other side of the pocket.


All done! Now sew your second welt pocket on your other pant back piece in the same way.



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