Use the following tutorial to support the instructions in your Charlie Pattern booklet.
The placket instructions begin on page 29. This tutorial will begin by pressing the left front plackets according to the instructions on page 30.
Stitching and pattern markings are illustrated in blue for clarity, please use matching threads on your project.
1. With the left front piece B Wrong Side (WS) up, turn and press the Center Front (CF) 1 1/ 4" and again 1 3/8" at the notches. I found marking the Right side (RS) of my fabric with chalk helpful in folding and pressing my fabric accurately.
2. Topstitch the whole length along the inner fold (scant 1 3/8)
(Illustrated in blue for clarity)
3. With the right front piece B WS up fold and press in the same manner as the left piece in step 1. Then transfer the start/stop topstitching lines onto your fabric.
Note: I am sewing the dress version, with the length altered for my height (5'4") So the photographs below are split into the top and bottom of my dress. if you are sewing the blouse, your lines will be closer together.
The marker at the top of the Right front (WS)
The marker at the bottom of the Right front (WS)
4. Topstitch the top section and the bottom sections only, leaving the section between the marks unsewn. (Scant 1 3/8" as before)
5. Place your two front pieces RS up, with the wearer's right side overlapping the left along the plackets.
Sew the two pieces together along the same line as you topstitched before, in between the markers. This will create the opening at the neck and the front slit.
Topstitching shown by the blue line, showing the neckline opening.
Topstitching shown ending at the 2nd notch, leaving the bottom of your blouse/dress open to create a slit.
The front placket is now complete! Onto the Back...
6. With WS up of your two back pieces A, fold and press the CF of each a scant 1 1/2" and again a full 1 1/2" to the WS.
7. Take the Piece that will be worn on the back right, and topstitch the whole length of the placket.
8. On the remaining left back piece, transfer the marking to start/stop topstitching from the pattern. Topstitch from this point to the hem as shown. No need to topstitch above this line.
9. Lay your back pieces RS up, with the partially topstitched left piece over the right. Overlap their back pieces at the placket, and pin in place.
10. Topstitch from the neckline all the way down to the marker.
Topstitching on the top half of the back.
Here, the topstitch is continued down the length of your back pieces and stops at the marker / where you started topstitching in step 8. This will leave the bottom open to create the back slit.
Your plackets are now sewn! continue sewing your dress/blouse by sewing the shoulder seams according to the instructions on page 32.