CAMERON - How to Sew the Neckline Placket

Use the following tutorial to support the instructions in your Cameron Pattern booklet.

The Neckline Placket instructions begin on page 27. This tutorial will begin by sewing the neck placket pieces together as shown on the lower section of page 27.




1. Pin and sew (1/2” seam) each pair of neck placket pieces (F & G) right sides together along the center back seam.


Make sure that you have transferred the three dot markings from your pattern to the bottom of the placket tab area. These dots indicate where you should pivot the stitch line in order to get a nice placket shape. Alternatively, you may use the placket template (N) as your sewing guide.



2. Matching the center back seams and notches, stack the two sets of sewn plackets right sides together and pin along the inner curve. Be sure to match the center back seam and notches.cameron_body17.jpg

3. Sew along the pinned inner curve and tab area together with a ½” seam. Stop at the outer notch of the tab and remember to backstitch.

4. Clip along the inner curve to release tension. Clip small wedges from the corners of the tab area to reduce bulk. Clip the notch on the inner curve, stopping just before the stitch line. Then trim the seam allowance down to ¼”.


Trimmed seam allowance at 1/4"

5. Press open one side of the seam allowance in the tab area. This will help create a nice tab shape when the placket is turned right side out.

6. Turn just the tab area right side out and press around the edges.

7. Understitch the placket: With the right side facing up, open the facing and finger press the seam allowance towards the inside placket facing. Topstitch 1/16” along the facing edge catching the seam allowance underneath, stopping at the tab area. This will ensure a neatly turned edge and prevent the facing from rolling outward.cameron_body20_line.jpg

Note: stitching lines are shown in red for clarity, please use matching thread.


8. Press the placket facing seam allowance a scant ½” towards the inside of the placket.



9. Sew a row of staystitching a scant ½” around the neckline. Use the three dot markings indicated on the pattern as your guide for pivoting the needle. Clip the inner corners, stopping just before the stitch line.


Note: stitching lines are shown in red for clarity, please use matching thread.


10. Pin the outside placket edge to the neckline right sides together and matching the center backs and the shoulder notches. The tabbed placket’s seam allowance will end at the neckline dot marking. The left placket’s seam allowance will end ½” past the neckline dot marking as shown:



11. Sew the neck placket to the neckline with a ½” seam, starting and stopping at the center front neckline. For the right tabbed placket, you will stop at the seam allowance jog on the dot marking. For the left placket, stop the stitching at the dot marking, ½” from the raw edge as shown:



12. Press the seam allowances towards the inside of the placket. Flip the placket over towards the center neckline and into its natural position. The inner placket facing will extend approximately 1/8” beyond the seam line. With the right side facing up, place pins in the ditch of the seam, catching the extended lip of the placket facing underneath.



13. Sew a row of topstitching in the ditch of the seam. Press the outer layer of the placket towards the stitch line. This will cover the stitching, making it invisible and creating a clean finish for your placket.

Note: leave the tab edge free as shown below:



14. Sew a ¼” topstitch all around the placket edges, including the seam joined to the neckline. Start and stop at the bottom loose edge of the under placket and take care to pivot neatly at the tab corners. Note that the lower tab should float freely; it is not topstitched through the body of the garment.


15. Unfold the bottom portion of the placket. Fold the raw seam allowance of the lower center neckline downward to the outside (Right Side).



16. Fold the left under placket over the raw seam allowance of the neckline. Place the right tabbed placket on top of the under placket. Pin the tab and all seam allowance together from underneath. Sew a stitch line through them as shown, and trim the top layer seam allowance to about 1/8” and the second layer to about ¼”. Then, trim the outer corners to reduce bulk.

When you look at the right side of your garment, you can now see one row of horizontal stitching for the tabbed area.



17. Sew the second row of topstitching ¼” below this first line going through all the layers including the body of the garment.


View from the wrong side:


18. The last step is to tack the loose tabbed area to the body of the garment. To do so, sew a few back-and-forth stitches in the lower V of the tab, following the existing seam line. Alternatively,

you can use an invisible stitch to sew the sides and V of the placket to the body of the garment.



Congratulations on your beautifully sewn neck placket!


For more photographed sewing instructions for the Cameron Pattern Collection, please visit the following links to our Blog:

Part 1: Sew the Back Yoke

Part 3: Sew the side seams and hem

Part 4: Sew and attach the sleeves


Have more questions? Submit a request


Please sign in to leave a comment.
Powered by Zendesk