LILY - How to Sew the Pocket

Use the following tutorial to support the instructions in your Lily Pattern booklet.

The pocket instructions begin on page 30. This tutorial is shown on the skirt version but is the same for the Dress and Tunic.

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Step 1. 

With right sides together, align the notched edges of pocket pieces P and Q together. Pin in place as needed. Sew from the top edge to the first notch, then from the second notch to the bottom edge as shown in your pattern instruction booklet.
Note: you will have two sets of pockets, and they will be the mirror image of each other.

Step 2.

Press your seams open. I will now refer to this piece as your pocket facing.

Press the seams of your main fabric open as well if you haven't done so already. Notice the pocket openings on both pieces.

Step 3.

Transfer pocket pattern markings on the body/skirt pieces using chalk or an erasable pen. 

Place the pocket facing you have just sewn over the side seam of the body with wrong sides together, lining up with the markings, and matching openings.

Note how the larger piece of the pocket facing is laying on the front bodice/skirt (pattern pieces A or C), and the small piece of the pocket facing is on the back piece (pattern pieces B or D).

Step 4.

Fold back the smaller pocket facing edge to reveal the seam allowances.
Note: The instructions will now only focus on one of the pockets (the wearer's left side) ensure you repeat these steps on the other side pocket.

Step 5.

Pin the seam allowances of the pocket and the body together. To make this easier, I folded the main body piece away from the seam allowances.

Sew the 1/2" seam allowances of the pocket opening only (between the notches). Be careful here to not catch the other side of the pocket opening. 

You will sew only the seam allowances— you will not sew through the body of the garment. 


Note: The stitching line is illustrated here in black for clarity, please use matching thread on your sewn project.

Repeat on the other side of your pocket facing.
Remember, only sew through the seam allowances, and move your skirt out of the way when sewing.

Step 6.

Now we will understitch the pocket facing to the seam allowance with 1/16" topstitch as follows; 

Lay your pocket facing pieces flat as shown. (You are still working on the wrong side of your garment) 

Then, fold the back body/skirt piece (B/D) of your garment under your pocket facing and front body piece as shown. Leaving the seam allowances and the pocket facing piece to remain flat on the other side. You are going to be sewing through these layers only in the next step.



Step 7. 

To understitch the pocket, Sew 1/16” away from the edge of the pocket opening only. Back tack at the beginning and end of your sewing.

Repeat on the other side of the pocket facing.

Now your pocket lining isn’t going to roll out to the right side of your garment! 

Step 8.

With the right side of your Dress/Tunic/skirt facing up, pull the pocket facings through the opening. Don’t stress about getting the pocket to lay flat here. 

Step 9.

Place pocket piece R over the pocket facings with the right side facing up. Pin around the outer edges of R and the pocket facings only. Do not pin through the skirt/dress/tunic.



Step 10.

Stitch pocket facings and pocket together with a 1/4" seam around all four edges. Press the seam allowance open. This will help set the edges for the next step. 

Step 11.

Pull the pocket back through the opening to the wrong side of the garment. Smooth out the pocket and press neatly around the seamed edges. 

Turn the garment over with the right side facing out. Sew a 1/4" topstitch along the sides of the pocket opening. I marked where I needed to sew with an erasable pen, as well as a line at the top and bottom of the opening to help me know where to start and stop. 

You will not be sewing through the pocket bag that you've just sewn onto your pocket facing. you will only be sewing the edges of the opening. Try to get as close as possible to the top and bottom of the opening at each side. 

Example of finished sewing lines:

How I positioned my pocket opening on my machine. Notice how just the edges of the pocket are under my needle.

Step 12.

Turn the garment back around so that the wrong side faces up. Pin around the pocket edges through all layers, including the body of the garment. Double topstitch around the edges of the pocket and garment body. From the edge, this will be at 1/16" and 1/4". 



To finish your pocket, continue to follow the instructions from your booklet. For a great tutorial on how to do bartacks, see our tutorial on the Thread HERE.
or copy and paste the text below into your browser:

https://blog.fabrics-store.com/2019/01/03/sewing-glossary-how-to-sew-bar-tacks-tutorial/

For more tutorials on the Lily pattern, see our Sew-Along on the Blog HERE