HANA - How to Sew the Waistband

Use the following tutorial to support the instructions in your Hana Pattern booklet.

The waistband instructions begin on page 47. This tutorial will begin by sewing the ties to the inner waistband pieces on page 48.

 

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1. Sew the ties (S) to pieces F and H between the pattern markings on the right side. Secure in place with a 1/4" stitch.

 

Note: I marked my fabric with a removable ink pen, and labeled my inner and outer waistband pieces which made telling the difference between them easier.

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2. Sew the side seams of the Inner waistband pieces with a 1/2" seam allowance, press open.

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3. Sew the sides seams of the outer pieces. it will now be easy to tell the difference between the inner and outer waistbands, the inner has the ties attached to it.

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4. Mark the casing placement on the outer waistband piece using the pattern markings. 


I did this by poking small holes in my pattern using the tip of my erasable pen and joining the dots. I've shown my process on Piece F below, be sure to do this using pieces G and H as well.

 

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5. Attach the drawstring casing: 

Prepare the drawstring casing per the instructions on page 50, then pin to the outer waistband.

NOTE: make sure the end of the waistband casing is 1/4" away from the edge of the waistband edge on piece G. This extra fabric needs to be left free so we can seam the raw waistband edges later on.

 

6. Sew the waistband to the bodice (Views A, B, and C)

lay your bodice open on a flat surface, with right side up. Pin the outer waistband to the bodice with right sides together, matching side seams, and notches. The notches will match up to your pleats/tucks.

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Pin in place. Do not sew down yet.

(RS = right side up, WS = wrong side up)

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7. Flip your bodice over so the wrong side is up. Pin the inner waistband to the bodice with the right side of the waistband facing the wrong side of the bodice. Match side seams and pleats/tucks as before.

Note: I liked to pull a pin out from the other side of my work and re-pin on this side as I went.

 

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Your bodice will be sandwiched between the right sides of your waistband pieces.
make sure you have 1/4" overhanging on one side. (This is for seaming the raw edges later)

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8. Sew a 1/2" seam along the lower edge. Then fold both waistband pieces down, press.

 

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9. Almost there! Let's sew in the skirt/peplum now.

First, attach the belt loops as per the instructions on page 53.
Then, lay the wrong side of your skirt/peplum onto the right side of the inner waistband. Pin and then sew with a 1/2" seam allowance.

 

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In the image below the right side of the skirt/peplum is facing up, and I have pinned it to the inner waistband only. (This will be on the wrong side of your bodice)

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Don't forget to leave a 1/4" space at the ends

 

10. Flip your bodice and skirt to face right side up on your workspace. Fold the waistband seam allowance (attached to the skirt) up into the waistband as shown. Press.

 

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11. Fold the outer waistband down over the inner waistband, and then fold up the raw edge 1/2" press but don't sew down yet.

 

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12: Finish the raw edges of the waistband. Fold your bodice and skirt/peplum wrong sides together sides together, matching the raw short ends of your waistand. Pin and sew with 1/4" seam (pictured in pink). be sure to move the peplum/ skirt out of the way so you don't catch it in the seam.

Repeat on the other side.

Clip corners at an angle to reduce bulk in the corners.

 

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13. Turn right side out, and poke out the corner of the waistband. 

Fold the waistband's last raw edge under the 1/2" you pressed under in step 11. Pin and topstitch as per instructions on page 55.

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Your waistband is complete! Finish your hand by following the rest of the instructions in your instruction booklet.

 

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