RIVA - How to Sew the Collar on the Shirt

Use the following tutorial to support the instructions in your Riva Pattern booklet.


The collar instructions begin on page 45. This tutorial will begin by sewing the collar to the neckline as per the instructions on page 47.


You will be lining up your collar to the neckline opening with piece E facing the right side of the neckline. Line your collar up by matching the center notch with the center back, and the two side notches with the yoke seams at the shoulder. (Circled in the image below)​


Your collar won't match up to the Center Front openings since we will be folding the placket in a certain way in a moment.


Sew your collar to the neckline using a scant 1/4" seam.


Ok, now let's fold both of the plackets in such a way that we can turn it right side out later and hide all of our raw edges inside it.

Back in part 6 on page 44, we pressed our plackets 3/4" twice to the wrong side, which correspond to the notches on our pattern. You may have unfolded this while pinning the collar.

Go ahead and fold the placket back again twice 3/4" towards the wrong side of your garment.





See the notch I've cut out in the image below? We are going to match that notch up with the edge of the collar in the next step.



Now take your folded placket and fold the whole thing over the right side of the garment, overlapping your collar, and matching that notch with the edge of the collar (and I'll show you why in a moment)



I pinned my placket on a slight angle as shown so that the raw edges matched up. Secure with a scant 1/4" stitch.





Now you can test out how the placket will sit by flipping the folded placket to the wrong side of the garment and popping out the corner. Lining up the placket at that notch gives us that lovely folded edge. Fold your plackets back and we will cover our raw edge with the bias strip next.




With the right side of your bias piece K facing down (unless you're using our linen which doesn't really have a wrong side), pin it on top of the collar and plackets. Be careful to lay your bias strip flat, and avoid pulling the fabric as it will want to stretch. Sew with a full 1/4" seam here which will cover all of our previous scant 1/4" seams previously sewn to the neckline.

Understitch the bias strip to the seam allowance at the neckline. I like to give the bias a press here against the seam allowance so I have a nice crisp line to follow.




Turn under the free edge 1/4" so it covers your raw edge at the neckline, give this fold a good press. We will pin this down later.



Now fold your placket out the right way. In the process of doing this, you will notice your collar will pop up and the bias strip will be facing down, enveloping the raw edge we just pressed between the shirt and the seam allowance.





Tuck it under neatly and topstitch the binding, and the placket in place according to the instructions on page 49 of your booklet.


You've finished your collar!






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